On May 7, #Gucci responds to Vipshop belt identified as fake by Dewu# topped Weibo's trending list. What's going on?
Event Review: Multiple Consumers Report Gucci Belts Bought on Vipshop Identified as Counterfeit by Dewu
Recently, several consumers reported that Gucci belts purchased on Vipshop were identified as counterfeit by the Dewu app. This smooth leather vintage buckle belt, priced at 3,300 yuan on the official website, was sold for only 2,549 yuan during a Vipshop promotion.
Subsequently, both parties commissioned different third-party appraisal agencies to issue reports.
On the evening of April 7, Dewu app posted on Weibo inspection reports from five appraisal agencies, including its own (three of which conducted online photo-based appraisals), all indicating the items were not genuine.
Additionally, Dewu disclosed the appraisal results from four third-party platforms for the Gucci belts submitted by relevant users. Two were online appraisals, both resulting in "failed," while the other two results were "sample is a counterfeit" and "does not meet brand craftsmanship."
Responses from All Parties
Vipshop Responded Twice: Guarantees Authenticity! Advises Consumers to Choose Authoritative Appraisal Agencies
Vipshop, on the other hand, presented a report from another appraisal agency, with the result being "conforms" (genuine).
Vipshop stated that it launched an internal investigation immediately. It has verified that this batch of Gucci belts was directly sourced overseas by Vipshop, with a clear, reliable, legal, and compliant procurement chain, ensuring authenticity.
Vipshop also claimed that this batch of goods was spot-checked by the China Certification & Inspection Group and passed the appraisal. Furthermore, each Gucci belt has an anti-counterfeit tag from Vipshop to prevent other uncontrollable risks.
Vipshop also attached the spot-check qualification documents and procurement invoices from the China Certification & Inspection Group. Its review result was "not genuine."
On April 8, Vipshop responded again, advising consumers who have doubts about products to choose authoritative appraisal agencies with appraisal qualifications for verification.
Gucci Responds: Only Guarantees Official Products
On the same day, a representative from Gucci China responded, stating they had taken note of the matter but would not comment for now, while emphasizing that Gucci guarantees products purchased through official channels are genuine. Official channels include brand directly-operated stores, the official website, and related authorized channels.
Notably, Gucci China stated that Gucci itself does not provide appraisal services. Additionally, it mentioned that Vipshop is not one of its authorized stores. Specific sales channels include the Gucci China official website, Gucci official flagship store, Gucci Beauty official flagship store, Gucci offline directly-operated stores, duty-free shops, and authorized dealer stores.
As the incident continued to escalate, on May 7, Gucci China responded again, stating they would not comment for now, only guaranteeing that products purchased through official channels are genuine.
Uncovering the "Gray Business" of Luxury Appraisal
Why would companies under the same China Certification & Inspection Group give completely opposite appraisal results? Is there any standard to follow for luxury goods appraisal?
According to a report by Beijing Evening News, an undercover investigation by reporters found that with the booming sales of luxury goods, numerous training courses claiming to cooperate with the China Certification & Inspection Group have emerged. After short-term training, participants can graduate and enter the industry, and can obtain a competency certificate after passing an exam.
Industry insiders analyze that China lacks a comprehensive luxury appraisal system, and there is a large "gray area" in luxury appraisal training.
Where to Get Appraisals? Brand Stores Don't Offer External Services; Third Parties Charge Fees
The "Rashomon" incident involving Vipshop's Gucci belts has brought the niche luxury appraisal industry to light, sparking public curiosity.
It is understood that China's second-hand luxury goods market has entered a growth phase.
According to relevant data, by the end of 2019, there were approximately 4,200 second-hand luxury goods stores above a certain scale nationwide, growing at a rate of over 10% annually. However, compared with countries like Europe, the US, and Japan, China's second-hand luxury market is still in its early development stage.
As transaction methods become increasingly diversified, how can consumers determine if luxury goods not purchased from brand stores are genuine?
In an undercover investigation, reporters learned that international luxury brand stores do not offer external appraisal services. Consumers who purchase luxury goods through channels other than brand stores must rely on third parties to verify authenticity. With the continuous rise of luxury consumption, besides second-hand luxury trading platforms, on platforms like Xiaohongshu, Douyin, and Taobao Headlines, many individuals claiming to be senior luxury appraisers post short appraisal videos and offer paid appraisal services, with fees ranging from several hundred yuan.
Even on the second-hand trading platform Xianyu, professional appraisal services for luxury goods and trendy brands have emerged, listed for tens or even just a few yuan. Buyers only need to provide some product images, and the appraiser can give a result within minutes, but the reply is often just a few words like "real," "genuine," "fake," or "high imitation."
Are the Results Reliable? No Legal Validity, No Unified Standards
Regardless of which luxury appraisal agency or individual issues the result, it will not be officially recognized by the luxury brand and has no legal validity whatsoever.
"The common practice in this industry is to only tell customers whether it's real or fake, but not explain why. The appraisal result cannot be used for any legal disputes or other complaints or suggestions," Hu Xiao, a second-hand luxury goods recycler in Beijing, told reporters.
"Frankly speaking, paid appraisal services are commercial activities. The result depends not only on the appraiser's ability but also on their professional ethics," Hu Xiao said. Online appraisal services offered by second-hand luxury e-commerce platforms, which determine authenticity based on photos uploaded by users, are extremely unreliable, as factors like color difference, texture, and hardware feel can be affected.
"Currently, China lacks a comprehensive luxury appraisal system. Auction houses and second-hand luxury stores each have their own methods, and the 'appraisal points' for each brand differ," an industry insider told reporters. There is still no unified technical standard for luxury appraisal in the industry. In fact, many domestic luxury appraisal agencies often act as both "players and referees," which significantly undermines their credibility.
This means that the current domestic second-hand luxury appraisal market is more like a self-entertaining commercial activity. According to statistics, the stock of luxury goods available for entry into the second-hand market in China is nearly one trillion yuan. Although the second-hand luxury market has broad prospects, the entire luxury appraisal industry urgently needs unified standards and regulations.
Who Studies Appraisal? Second-Hand Store Owners, Luxury Sellers
If appraisal results have no legal validity, why are there so many appraisal training courses recruiting students at high prices?
Reporters found that luxury appraisal courses on the market vary in name, with fees generally ranging from 20,000 to 30,000 yuan, and training durations from one week to half a month.
Awei (pseudonym), head of the academic affairs office at a domestic "authoritative" luxury appraisal education institution, told reporters that they have close cooperation with China Certification & Inspection Group Zhejiang Company, even organizing students to participate in the company's appraisals of luxury goods involved in disputes related to customs, public security, courts, and consumer protection.
"We offer two types of appraisal training: one course lasts 7 days with a tuition fee of 19,800 yuan, and the other lasts 16 days with a tuition fee of 39,800 yuan," Awei told reporters. Training is conducted at the headquarters in Hangzhou and covers the appraisal and valuation of international first-tier brand bags and jewelry.
"Most students are preparing to run their own second-hand luxury stores or engage in second-hand luxury trading. Very few are simply applying for positions like luxury appraiser," Awei said. After completing the course, students can also provide appraisal services to consumers, but this does not constitute their main future income source.
What Can You Learn? Courses Are Self-Designed, Teachers Use Aliases
Reporters conducted undercover investigations at training institutions claiming to cooperate with China Certification & Inspection Group Jiangsu, Zhejiang, Guangdong, and Sichuan companies. They found that despite cooperating with the same group, these institutions generally set their own luxury appraisal course curricula without unified standards. Learning materials are self-compiled, and opportunities for hands-on contact with real items vary.
Taking a well-known training institution cooperating with CCIC Zhejiang as an example, reporters found that besides briefly covering the development trends of the second-hand luxury industry and customer acquisition channel analysis, the course involved explaining one or more international first-tier brands every half day, along with practical hands-on appraisal exercises, covering brands like LV, Gucci, Ferragamo, Hermès, Balenciaga, and MCM.
"On average, two hours per brand including hands-on practice. Do you think you can master a brand in two hours?" one student questioned the teaching quality on social media. The teaching staff at these courses is also generally opaque. Nearly two-thirds of the teachers use nicknames like "Brother X," "Sister X," "Teacher X," or aliases, with vague titles such as "Lecturer of the Chinese and Foreign Famous Products Appraisal Committee" or "Senior Bag Care Specialist."
One well-known institution claimed its training instructor was a bag appraisal expert for the Zhejiang Customs Anti-Smuggling Bureau, having participated in multiple luxury appraisals for customs-related disputes.
However, the customs department stated that for anti-smuggling cases involving intellectual property, the involved brand owner generally applies for self-identification, and no third party participates in authenticity appraisal. Furthermore, customs has never hired any external bag "experts" for anti-smuggling work.
Are the Certificates Useful? Not Nationally Recognized, Hard to Mutually Recognize in the Industry
Multiple training institutions claim to have close cooperation with various branches of the China Certification & Inspection Group. After completing training and passing exams, students can obtain a "Luxury Appraiser Competency Certificate" issued by the branch. "Issuing industry-authoritative certificates," "Get a CCIC 'national-level' certificate upon passing," "The CCIC certificate is currently the most authoritative and valuable in the industry." Is this really the case?
"The competency certificate is an industry-recognized certificate and does not fall under the 'professional qualification certificate' category issued by the Ministry of Human Resources and Social Security. Currently, the Ministry has not issued any certificates for the second-hand luxury appraisal industry, so there is no such thing as national recognition," an industry insider admitted. Furthermore, each branch of the CCIC only recognizes its own appraisal results.
"You can think of getting this certificate like getting a driver's license. Getting the license doesn't mean you can solve all problems while driving. Similarly, getting this competency certificate doesn't mean you have fully mastered the skills of luxury appraisal."
What is the exam pass rate? Awei said it's around 30% to 40%. Another institution stated, "We have run 215 sessions so far, and no student has failed to get the certificate. After obtaining the certificate, students cannot issue appraisal reports in the name of the CCIC. It is mainly used for joining second-hand luxury e-commerce trading platforms like RedBrlin, Panghu.com, and Feiyu, for industry reference only."
Reprinted: 21st Century Business Herald Integrated News